Talk about raising expectations! In addition to its location on the third floor of the newly opened art museum on the Princeton University campus — a museum that’s received nearly universal acclaim for its architecture and for the art housed within — Mosaic restaurant’s website in part states that “Mosaic is an homage to creativity in all its forms” and that “Our menu, beverage program, tableware, and hospitality are an extension of the Princeton University Art Museum experience, where every detail reflects artistry and intention.”
Bold claims to live up to, yes? Following two recent visits to Mosaic (which takes its name from the Roman mosaics on display on — or more accurately, in — the museum’s ground floor) to take in the decor, ambiance, and sample the menu in the morning and at mid-day, I’m pleased to report that the restaurant lives up to its lofty statements on all counts.
On our first visit, at 1 p.m. on a weekday, my dining companion and I made our way past the galleries, up two flights of stairs (there is elevator access as well) to the third floor, where we were warmly welcomed at the door and escorted to our table. Despite the full dining room, we also noted the pleasant buzz of conversation and the reasonable noise level.
The first thing that caught our eye in Mosaic’s dining room is (again, from Mosaic’s website) “the handmade painted tile mosaic adorning the restaurant’s north wall, fabricated by artisans in Mexico and inspired by artist Odilon Redon.” As I later learned, (thank you, Wikipedia) Redon was a French draftsman, print maker, and painter whose work is considered to be a precursor to Surrealism.
And unlike the restaurants in some other museums that I’ve visited, which have the all the ambiance of a glorified high school cafeteria that’s been tacked on as an afterthought, Mosaic’s decor is fully integrated with the architectural elements of the striking structure that contains it.
Case in point; the mosaic motif reflected in the wall behind the banquettes, the long counter along the opposite, windowed wall (ideal when dining solo and for catching a view of the campus) and in the accent flooring surrounding the wood planking at the center of the room reference the mosaic elements on the museum’s exterior walls.
Ten tables in the center of the room can accommodate up to four guests each. Generously sized banquettes along the inner wall allow the flexibility to accommodate parties large and small. And the counter along the windows accommodates 16. An outdoor terrace will provide additional seating when warm weather returns.
While caught up in appreciating Mosaic’s decor, we were approached by Jermaine, our engaging server, who also offered a warm greeting, proffered menus, took our beverage orders, thoughtfully inquired about potential food allergies, and left us to peruse the menu.
We also took a moment to observe the comings and goings of the well-staffed dining room, overseen by no less than three managers, who continuously worked the room, checking in with diners and pitching in to support the servers when needed. Clearly there is a strong commitment to ensuring a successful launch.
We later learned that Mosaic is managed by Restaurant Associates (restaurantassociates.com), a nationally recognized on-site dining management firm that also manages dining at the Faculty Club at Prospect House, the private dining club serving Princeton University faculty and staff. At the helm of the kitchen at Mosaic is Eric Dantis, a French Culinary Institute graduate with prior stints at Forsgate Country Club, Shackamaxon Country Club, and other fine dining destinations in the New York/New Jersey area.
On to our meal selections. The eclectic menu of breakfast/brunch/lunch selections offers enough variety of soups, salads, entrees, and baked goods to appeal to a broad spectrum of preferences and dietary requirements; check out Mosaic’s website for details, and for a list of food purveyors, many of whom hail from our area.
To start, we shared a bowl of creamy and delicious Honeynut Squash Soup (snapdragon salsa, tahini yogurt, aleppo pepper), perfect cool weather fare. For entrees, we sampled the Potato and Onion Frittata (garden salad, bell pepper puree, bitter greens), deemed moist and creamy, the potatoes just firm enough, with a dusting of crisped potato flakes. The Heirloom Grain Salad (farro, apples, goat cheese, cider) was declared a winner as well.
For dessert, we took Jermaine’s recommendation and ordered and ordered the Crepe Cake, a very shareable and tasty combo alternating thin layers of orange mascarpone and cranberry curd and topped with fresh cranberries. A flavorful latte and rich French press coffee completed our meal.
An extensive selection of soft drinks, teas, mocktails, wine, and beer is on offer as well, but it must be noted, as it is on the menu, that “Alcohol purchases (are) limited to Prospect House Association and Art Museum members and their guests. Ask server for details.” You’ll also find those details at the end of this article.
Upon a second visit, this time at 9:15 a.m., we were the lone patrons in the dining room until about 9:45, 15 minutes before the galleries open. We were pleasantly surprised to find the same waitstaff and managers on duty, including our luncheon server, Jermaine.
I chose the Soft Scrambled Eggs (chorizo, pickled onions, salsa macha) served on a rectangle of toasted brioche, a very satisfying combination. My dining companion opted for the Leek & Parmesan Danish, an unexpected combination that did not disappoint. A reprise of the latte and French press we had ordered with our luncheon visit fortified us for the very pleasant pastime of visiting the galleries below.
It’s also worth mentioning that the quality of the flatware and colorful ceramic serving pieces are commensurate with the fittings and finishes of Mosaic’s dining room. The former is by British-based designers of professional kitchenware and tableware David Mellor Design, the latter made in Union City, New Jersey, by Jono Pandolfi USA. Both contribute to the “mosaic” of artful touches that make dining at Mosaic a worthy accompaniment to a frankly awesome art museum.
Mosaic Restaurant at Princeton University Art Museum, Elm Drive, Princeton University campus. Open Mondays, Thursdays, and Fridays, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Reservations recommended. artmuseum.princeton.edu/visit/mosaic-restaurant.
Regarding the purchase of alcohol at Mosaic, according to its website: “Alcohol purchases at Mosaic are subject to the conditions of its alcoholic beverage license as administered by the New Jersey Division of Alcoholic Beverage Control. This license limits purchases to Princeton University ‘club members.’ Princeton University faculty, staff and some University ‘affiliates’ are recognized as ‘club members’ and are permitted to purchase alcohol under this license for themselves and up to nine guests. University ‘affiliates’ include Art Museum Members (following a three-day waiting period after their membership becomes active).”
