Mystery Muncher: McManimon’s Pub

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Potato fritters.

Fried shrimp and fries

Trenton’s McManimon’s Pub serves homestyle food in a comfy setting.

Stepping into McManimon’s Pub in South Trenton is like stepping back in time.

It’s that cozy little corner “shot and a beer” kind of place that your grandfather might have visited. Once or twice. The regulars comprise locals from the surrounding neighborhood (the Grand Court Villa Apartments, aka “the Cigar Factory” is just up the street) and across the Trenton area. There may be a game on the TV, or it could be dart night (the pub sponsors a team in the local league).

Weekdays, the company may be a bit sparse, but proprietor John McManimon and his staff will welcome you like an old friend, even if it is your first visit. McManimon’s has always put on nice spreads for post-St. Patrick’s Day parade parties and other special events.

Over the past couple of years, the pub has expanded its offerings beyond beer and bar snacks to include some hefty sandwiches and soups made in house. In the past few months, they’ve added some fried items like potato fritters ($2.50) and fish or shrimp and chips ($8.75).

On a recent day when the weather was unseasonably chilly, I stopped in for something warming and hearty. I wasn’t disappointed.

The offerings that particular day were chili and spicy seafood stew. Opting for the latter, I got a nice bowl of soup accompanied with two generous pieces of garlic toast.

The seafood stew ($3.25) was a rich mahogany color…something like a good gumbo might look like. The liquid part was of a medium consistency…not velvety like a roux-thickened stock or heavy like a bisque, but not watery either. The flavor was rich with warm spices with a very modest heat in the finish.

In all honesty, it was hard to discern any identifiable pieces of “seafood” amongst the corn, carrots, peas, green beans and potatoes that populated the bowl. I suspect the base of the soup was seafood stock created when the kitchen steams mussels.

Overall the stew was flavorful, with a faintly Asian character. It was quite satisfying and, while not piping hot, did take away the chill of the day.

Still just a little bit hungry, I ordered a salami and provolone sandwich on a roll ($3.75). What I received was a half of a large hoagie roll overflowing with thin slices of genoa salami and a couple of slices of provolone cheese. The sandwich was accompanied by some pickle slices and a very crisp, tangy cole slaw.

The ambiance is old school, corner bar. The food is not fancy, but it is filling as well as satisfying. You won’t break the bank eating here, and one pint to go with your meal won’t negatively impact your return to work. In fact, it might improve your day.

McManimon’s Pub, 151 Liberty St., Trenton. Hours: Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m., Sundays noon to 2 a.m. Phone: (609) 393-9023. Cash only.

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