When dining out, as in most aspects of life, first impressions count big time by setting expectations of what’s to follow. If you stop to think about it, dining out is theater, and a restaurant is a stage set. Consciously or not, when you approach a dining venue for the first time and walk through the front door, you’ve already begun to anticipate what’s in store.
The website of Absolute Commercial Interiors, an English commercial interior design firm, notes in a blog post that “the ambience in a restaurant plays an undeniably significant role in shaping your customers’ overall dining experience. Ambience ties the cuisine, service, and environment together to define your diners’ perception of your restaurant.”
Some restaurants simply do a better job than others in managing diners’ expectations and making their décor an integral part of fostering an appreciation for their cuisine. Here are just five of the many examples of eateries in our area that have managed to achieve just that.
Note that before you visit, you’re encouraged to peruse the full menus for each that are posted on their websites, as well as to verify opening and closing times. Reservations are also highly recommended.
Kristine’s
In its décor and cuisine, Kristine’s in downtown Princeton clearly aspires to create the look and feel of a casual yet elegant French dining spot — and manages to do a highly satisfying job on both counts. Considerable effort has been spent on the details of the exterior and interior design, doing so in ways that appear both obvious and subtle to the eye.
Approaching Kristine’s from Hinds Plaza, one is drawn to the cafe curtains, the inviting blue and white striped awnings emblazoned with “Kristine’s” in distinctive script. The “Bienvenue (‘Welcome’) Kristine’s” on the window glass beckons as you pass by the outdoor dining area to the double entry doors on the south corner of the brick structure.
A more subtle design element, intentional or not, is the simple semi-circular awning over the entry, a sly visual reference to the Art Nouveau canopies covering access to the Paris Metro.
The restrained design choices in the dining room evoke Paris without crossing over into kitsch. The petite floor tiles are set in a pattern that makes them seem to swirl across the room. Fluted glass shades adorn the overhead lighting. The horseshoe-shaped bar, replete with bentwood stools, conveys the look of the zinc-topped bars in many establishments found throughout La Belle France. The artwork adds to the feeling that you’ve been transported back to Paris in the 1930s.
In short, Kristine’s manages to be invitingly French in appearance, an especially remarkable feat considering that the space housed a boutique in its previous incarnation. But it’s the ambient sound of Kristine’s that seals the deal.
The sound system may be playing the strains of Bal-musette, a style of French instrumental music usually featuring an accordion that became popular in Paris in the 1880s. Or you may hear the little sparrow Édith Piaf proclaiming “Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien,” Charles Trenet crooning “La Mer” (long before Bobby Darin made the English version a hit in the U.S.) or perhaps the iconoclastic folk singer Georges Brassens singing a tune you’re probably better off not understanding the words to.
And the conversations of the patrons dining at adjoining tables can be part of the charm of Kristine’s as well, as likely to be in French as English.
The menu at Kristine’s reads like a hit parade of well-curated French favorites that regulars have come to expect: onion soup, foie gras torchons, moules et frites, duck confit, steak frites, as well as vegan and gluten-free options. General manager Branden English notes that cool weather additions may include burgundy beef, cassoulet, boudin noir, and lamb shank.
Underscoring Kristine’s French pedigree is the restaurant’s selection of French wines and spirits, with knowledgeable staff eager to make recommendations; for example, Branden is certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, a global provider of wine and spirit education for professionals and enthusiasts.
Bon appetit!
Kristine’s, 51 Witherspoon Street, Princeton. Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., then 4 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. 609-924-3339 and kristinesprinceton.com.
Local Greek
Do an online search for “typical Greek taverna” and you’ll see that Local Greek, at 44 Leigh Avenue in Princeton, has fulfilled the promise that owner Tony Kanterakis made upon opening its doors in November 2017 — an assurance that, when visiting, customers can “escape Princeton” and enter Greece.
Despite the un-Greek presence of Tortuga’s Mexican Village, another neighborhood mainstay, across the street, that statement still rings true. Nearly five years later, Local Greek continues to be a neighborhood gathering place to enjoy Greek cuisine in a setting with the authentic spirit of a cozy local hangout on a Greek isle.
As reported in U.S. 1 soon after the restaurant opened, the look of Local Greek is a big part of its appeal, from the sun-washed white and blue exterior and inviting outdoor seating to the rustic wooden tables and floors, white subway tile, and whitewashed walls within — not to mention the welcoming attitude and efficient service of the staff. You may hear the strains of Greek music in the background, but at a volume that permits quiet conversation.
At the time, Kanterakis reflected on the spirit of Greek culture that he had worked to bring to Local Greek. “I think a lot of the Greek words on the walls explain what’s important about Greek culture,” he noted, “the warmth and hospitality of the Greek people, the attitude that strangers are friends you haven’t met yet.”
To cite one example, a sign over the entrance to the side dining room proclaims that ‘the secret ingredient is always love,’ and three Greek words and their definitions hand-painted on the wall expand on the sentiment; ‘Filoksenia – An act of hospitality, a warm welcome,’ ‘Kefi – The spirit of joy and enthusiasm in which good times and passion for life are experienced by an abundance of excitement, happiness and fun,’ and ‘Meraki – The soul; creativity or love put into something: the essence of yourself put into your work.’
It would be impossible to quote the extensive menu here, a well-curated selection of soups, salads, appetizers, meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes that range from old favorites (avgolemono, dolmades [stuffed grape leaves], gyro platter, souvlaki, baklava) to more upmarket entrees like shrimp flambé, whole grilled branzino and topping out at a substantial mixed grill platter ($74.95). Local Greek is BYO, or patrons may choose from the offerings of Old York Cellars in Ringoes.
Perhaps the best example of “plate expectations” is the string of Greek letters diners pass under that proclaims, “We are all family.”
“When strangers to a Greek town wander by, it’s not unusual for locals to invite them in and share their hospitality,” Kanterakis explains. “That’s the feeling I’m trying to create here — to capture the spirit of the Greek people.”
Local Greek, 44 Leigh Avenue, Princeton. Monday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Tuesday to Friday, noon to 9 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m.to 8 p.m. 609-285-2969 and localgreeknj.com.
Note: Tony Kanterakis has four other Greek-themed restaurants, including Greek Bites and Loco Cheese in Princeton, Local Greek Lambertville, and Local Greek Seafood in Hopewell. Visit eatlocalgreek.com for details.
AJA Asian Cuisine and Lounge
Diners in the area with very long memories may recall that 1736 Route 206 in Montgomery was once the address of the County Line restaurant, back in the day when a slab of prime rib served with a wedge of iceberg lettuce topped with blue cheese dressing was considered the height of haute cuisine. Come to think of it, that combo still sounds mighty tasty. The County Line is long gone, replaced by a succession of eateries in what turned into a hard-luck location.
Perhaps that’s why koi are a recurring presence in the current establishment at that address, AJA Cuisine and Lounge. In Japan, koi, a colorful relative of the common carp, serve as a symbol of good luck and determination in the face of hard times.
Koi have been reported to live as long as two centuries; perhaps they are the good luck charms that will ensure AJA’s longevity, given that there are koi abound at AJA, most notably in the large pottery vessel next to reception that contains live fish languidly lazing about.
Koi also appear on assorted fine china serving pieces, and three koi, writ large, circle gracefully on the wall behind the sushi bar. Uniformed itamae (sushi chefs), donned in their caps and tunics, silently and methodically go about their work.
Koi aside, it’s hard to know where to begin to describe AJA’s lavish décor. The quality and quantity of detail one discovers while meandering through the multi-roomed, multi-themed interior is astonishing.
Push the beautifully carved hardwood push plates affixed to the entry doors and note the display of dozens of abaci on the wall to your right. Asian artwork and statuary of all sizes are strategically placed throughout, well-positioned to encourage appreciation by their patrons — almost like wandering through an art gallery.
Many of the interior walls of AJA are finished in small, smooth river stones, with thousands of them set in plaster. Apart from the strips of neon that define the various dining areas, the soft indirect lighting succeeds in giving what would otherwise be cavernous spaces a hushed ambiance and an intimate feel.
The lighting, combined with the use of Asian hardwood accents, river stone, and slate floor tiles, work together to convey the impression that AJA is a place for serious dining. With a mix of spacious booths and tables, it’s no wonder that in the cooler months, seats near the working fireplace are sought-after spots.
The décor continues down to the stairs leading to the lower-level lobby, additional party rooms, and even the restrooms; all are tastefully designed and realized.
There is no shortage of dining options for parties of every size. In addition to the main dining room, AJA sports a sushi bar and cocktail bar, as well as the (lavender-bedecked) Lavender room and the (very red) Mandarin rooms, which may be booked singly or in combination for private events.
And then there are AJA’s menu offerings, too numerous to enumerate in this limited space and best perused at your leisure online.
There you’ll find enough soups, salads, sushi, sashimi, rolls, wok and grilled selections, noodle and rice dishes, bento boxes, and dessert choices to keep you occupied for a while.
Looking for a low-risk introduction to AJA? Stop in for lunch and choose from a selection of reasonably priced dishes that include salad, soup, and a main course.
My friend and longtime Princeton resident Marty, one of my go-to experts on all things Japanese, especially enjoys the sushi/sashimi luncheon special; 4 pieces of sushi, 8 pieces of sashimi, and a spicy tuna roll for a very reasonable $23.
AJA, 1736 US 206, Montgomery. Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. then 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. then 4:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; Saturday, 12:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.; and Sunday, 12:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Full bar service available. 908-262-2512 and AJAmontgomery.com.
El Tule
If you’ve only experienced Lambertville as a Delaware River town characterized by the charming 19th century structures along Bridge Street, take the first right after turning in off Route 29.
On your left, you’ll happen upon the bright orange, black, and green sign on a one-story building boldly proclaiming it to be the home of El Tule Mexican and Peruvian Cuisine.
Walk past the row of picnic tables and catch a glimpse of the patio dining area at the rear, festooned with twinkly lights crisscrossed overhead and on the fence that encloses the space.
As you step inside, witness the bright colors abound; orange predominates on the walls and on the red-bordered menus and includes other bright colors as well, reflecting the natural dyes from native plants and the earth that color the traditional clothing of both countries.
One wall is covered with concert posters in dayglo colors announcing appearances by Peruvian musicians, singers, and composers of contemporary and traditional Andean music, like Peruvian singer-composer Dina Paucar and the dazzling Andean orchestra Super Briliantes del Ande.
The background music reflects the décor as well, played at a festive yet comfortable volume. Rustic floor tile, dark brown tables, and comfortable chairs complete the picture, giving El Tule the look and feel of a neighborhood establishment you might find in Oaxaca or Cuzco.
And then there’s “El Tule” itself, the tree logo that appears throughout the restaurant and on the t-shirts worn by Jack, the owner, and his staff.
It’s a graphic reference to El Árbol del Tule, Spanish for ‘The Tree of Tule,’ a massive Montezuma cypress located in the center of Santa María del Tule in the Mexican state of Oaxaca said to have been planted 1,400 years ago by Pechocha, a priest of the Aztec wind god Ehecatl.
As with the décor, El Tule comes by the authenticity of its cuisine honestly. Relocating from Peru in 1992, the Egoavil and Anguino families present a Mexican Latin fusion menu, guided by chefs from the Egoavil and Anguino families. Peruvian chef Carmen Egoavil has built on the culinary skills she learned from her mother, while chef Said Anguino crafts the Mexican side of the menu with interpretations of traditional recipes.
The menu includes a selection of vegetarian, seafood, and meat dishes. Ceviche includes ceviche limeno (corvina fish, sweet potatoes, Peruvian corn) and ceviche mixto (corvina fish, shrimp, octopus, and calamari), “Flavors of Peru” includes coliflor saltada tacu (vegan wok stir-fried cauliflower and fresh vegetables, served over Peruvian beans and rice) and lamb stew tacu tacu (boneless lamb slowly cooked for 48 hours in a sauce of Peruvian panca peppers and Chicha de Jora (a beer made from fermented maize).
Mexican specialties include spinach and crab enchiladas, tampiquena (marinated ribeye topped with guacamole), and more.
There’s also a good selection of large and small plates to share, and a non-alcoholic drink selection that includes Inca Kola, Jamaica tea, and Chicha Morada (purple Peruvian corn, pineapple, a “hint of lime, and a hint of cinnamon”).
A ‘Locals Night Special’ on Wednesday evenings offers three courses, plus a complimentary margarita for just $30. Chevere! (‘Awesome’).
El Tule Mexican & Peruvian Restaurant, 49 N. Main St., Lambertville. Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, noon to 9 p.m. BYOB. 609-773-0007 and eltulerestaurant.com.
Note: El Tule has opened a sister restaurant, Quinoa, in Doylestown, PA. Visit quinoarestaurantbyo.com for details.
Luca’s Ristorante
In the ironically named Country Plaza, a small retail strip virtually distinguishable from so many others along the Route 27 corridor between Kendall Park and New Brunswick, look between Desi Food Galaxy and Casa Tortilla Tex Mexican Grille — and you’ll find Luca’s Ristorante.
Etched into the window glass, printed on its menu, and elsewhere, you’ll find an intriguing promise: “Experience the Taste of Ischia.”
‘What or where is Ischia, and what does Ischian cuisine taste like?’ you may ask. By the end of your time at Luca’s, all will be revealed. First, the what and where — Ischia is a picturesque, mountainous volcanic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, about 19 miles from Naples, Italy. Its highest peak is Mount Epomeo (2,585 feet).
It is also the home of Luca’s executive chef/owner Andrea Di Meglio. Since 1994, Di Meglio and his capable staff have been bringing the flavors of Ischia and other parts of Italy to satisfied diners in our area.
Can’t jet off to a volcanic island off the Neapolitan Coast this week? No worries, Di Meglio has also taken great pains to bring the ambiance of Ischia to Luca’s, making it the kind of local place you’d brag to your friends that you discovered while on your Neapolitan holiday. You’ll start to get a hint as soon as you pass by the newly created outdoor (in season) dining area, past the plaque that reads “Quelo che per me – Il doppio a te,” which for the linguistically challenged among us translates to “What you wish for me – I wish double for you.”
Then it’s on to reception and a warm greeting before being shown to your table (reservations strongly suggested) in one of two dining areas. Subdued lighting, rustic floor tiles and brick wainscoting make for a cozy atmosphere. On the way, you’ll notice the paintings of Ischian scenes, and take a moment to take in the impressive array of wall-mounted tiles, presumably commissioned by Di Meglilo, depicting his native island, and filled with colorful caricatures of local characters.
The other imagery you’ll notice while pursuing the menu is that of a mischievous, rather grotesque figure clad in white garb, which includes a pointed cap but also a dark mask that appears in the artwork on display throughout Luca’s. Our gracious server – named Luca as it happens, and a relative of the owner — explained that the figure represented Pulcinella, who we learned upon further research was a classic character in Neapolitan puppetry dating to the 17th century and became a stock character in Neapolitan puppetry, a schemer and social climber always striving to improve his lot in life.
The visual feast is accompanied by a culinary feast as well, and diners are well advised to peruse Luca’s extensive menu online. Worth noting in this limited space are Di Meglio’s Ischian specialties, helpfully indicated in red on the lunch and dinner menus. These include Fico (fresh figs, mascarpone, pine nuts, prosciutto, mango balsamic pears), Agnolotti (stuffed butternut squash, cocoa pasta, pumpkin seeds, creamy herb), Marsala Arrosto (roasted whole chicken breast with Frenched drumette marsala sauce, mushroom risotto) and more. Finish your mini break to Ischia with a tasty selection from the dessert menu and excellent coffee from Benfatto Coffee Roasters of Hillsborough.
As we were settling our bill with Luca, we heard a smiling couple proclaim, “We’ll be back!” on their way out the door. Ditto.
Luca’s Ristorante, 2019 Route 27 (NJ-27), Somerset. Sunday, noon to 10 p.m.; Monday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. 732-297-7676 and lucasristorante.com.
Note: A selection of wines from Hopewell Valley Vineyards is offered, but BYO is welcome. Please be advised that 3.5% will be added to the check if paying with a credit card.
Those seated at Local Greek are surrounded by elements of Greek culture.,
Indulge in French meals at Kristine's such as duck confit and foie gras.,
Bright colors welcome diners to El Tule, a Peruvian/Mexican spot in Lambertville.,
