At Enzo’s, they treat you like family

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Anna, left, and Rita Scozzari of Enzo’s La Piccola Cucina have made the South Lawrence restaurant a homestyle Italian food destination for 25 years. Staff photo by Rob Anthes. For 25 years, Enzo’s La Piccola Cucina has been developing a reputation as a classic neighborhood restaurant. Now, they’re taking the concept of homestyle fare to another level. Starting in February, the 48-seater will feature “Comfort Food Wednesdays,” a weekly offering of Italian family staples like veal and peppers in a breadbowl, Nonna’s old-fashioned Italian-style meatloaf and braised chicken and peas. “It’s been so cold lately, and I just think it’s something people need and you can’t find,” said co-owner Anna Scozzari of the concept. That’s not to say Wednesdays are the only specialty day at Enzo’s. Since September, they have also offered seatings for a five-course Sunday dinner once a month from 1 to 5 p.m. Tables are set up for groups of 10 to 15 people, and diners are seated either next to other members of their parties or next to someone they’ve just met who shares a hunger for good food – and old-world traditions. Meals start with antipasti like olives, pepperoni, sopressata and cheeses, as well as seasonal items like stuffed zucchini flowers, rice balls and tripe dishes – “things that nobody makes and sells anymore,” Anna said. From there it’s on to house-made pappardelle or fettucine with seasonal sauces, then a main course, then on to dessert. Enzo’s began in 1983 as a pizza and sandwich place operated by Anna’s father, Vincent “Enzo” Scozzari Sr., and her mother, Rita. They opened it on the site of a former deli operated by the Scozzari family in the early 20th century. “My grandfather actually built this building,” Anna said. Anna was a waitress at the restaurant for 18 years, until her father became ill, at which point she took a larger role at Enzo’s. Vincent Scozzari died in 2004. They still serve pizza and sandwiches, but Anna said she and Rita enjoy cooking the homestyle Italian food most. She does a lot of shopping for ingredients and prep work, and works with the restaurant’s long-time chef to make dishes like chicken francaise, filet mignon, veal chops, or Rita’s chicken cacciatore, which differs a bit from what you might find at other restaurants. “People are very surprised when they see it is [a] white [sauce],” Anna said. But for many Italians, especially those native to Italy, the white sauce is traditional, she said. Specials change weekly and are seasonal. Though the special five-course dinners are typically only served on the second Sunday of the month, Anna said they can do it any Sunday for groups of 20 or more if they make a reservation. Above all, when you’re at Enzo’s, it’s about eating where you feel comfortable. “People say they felt like family, like having dinner here. There’s nights when everybody knows each other,” Anna said. Enzo’s La Piccola Cucina, at 1906 Princeton Avenue in Lawrence, is a BYOB restaurant. It is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday starting at 5 p.m., and for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Telephone: (609) 396-9868. Web:

enzoscucina.com

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