Chilean poet Pablo Neruda put it nicely: “I like on the table, when we’re speaking, the light of a bottle of intelligent wine.”
And for those of us who can and do enjoy the occasional glass of wine, there’s no better time to sip and savor than when it is accompanying a meal at a favorite restaurant. But which wine? With which menu selections?
The choices can be daunting. Fortunately, many establishments spanning a wide range of cuisines and price points have risen to that challenge of helping us answer these crucial culinary questions by assembling well curated wine lists as well as staff who can gently guide us to a satisfying selection.
According to Wine Spectator, a lifestyle magazine and website (winespectator.com) that has been dedicated to rating wines, wine producers, wine lists, and reporting on wine and wine culture since 1976 has recognized three Princeton restaurants — Elements, Perch, and Witherspoon Grill — as worthy of its 2023 Award of Excellence.
According to the publication, to qualify for the award, restaurants need “…wine lists, which should offer at least 90 selections, feature a well-chosen assortment of quality producers, along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style. Whether compact or extensive, focused or diverse, these lists deliver sufficient choice to satisfy discerning wine lovers.”
“Even while dealing with the challenges that linger from the pandemic, restaurants around the world have found ways not only to excel and distinguish themselves with wine, but to exceed their previous accomplishments,” Cassia Schifter of Wine Spectator writes.
Let’s take a closer look (in alphabetical order) at each of these award recipients and get a taste of what each has to offer:
elements Princeton
It’s impossible to think of fine dining in Princeton without elements coming to mind. And elements is no less passionate when it comes to wine. According to the restaurant’s website, “our list has classics from the old world as well as wines from emerging regions.” Wine Spectator notes that elements offers 325 selections from an inventory of 900 bottles.
The extensive list offers wines from producers in places familiar to most of us, like California and France, to unexpected locales such as Lebanon and Slovenia.
Fortunately, general manager Carl Rohrbach and his staff are there to help you make sense of it all.
“I have a diploma in wine and spirits from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust,” he says, “and I was a candidate for the master of wine program from 2017-2019.”
Rohrbach notes that he has been running wine programs in Princeton since 2009, at elements from 2012 to 2016 and as the wine educator at the Princeton Corkscrew Wine Shop from 2016 to 2023. “I came back to elements and Mistral in February 2023 and run both wine programs again,” he says.
What are the things Rohrbach considered when putting the wine list together for elements? “Most importantly, we are looking for a quality wine that fits with the food at elements,” he explains. “Next, we are looking for wines that are a great expression of where they are from, the grape varietal(s) and vintage conditions. Finally, at how the grapes are farmed, and how is the wine made: we look for smart, responsible farmers who grow grapes as environmentally responsible as possible, combined with minimal intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar.”
Rohrbach adds that the list is constantly evolving. “Seasonality is a consideration, for sure,” he elaborates, “though we are always looking for quality wines that will pair beautifully with our food. We reprint our wine list multiple times a week, based on new arrivals or wines that we sell out of.”
One pleasurable way to take a crash course in wine/food pairings is via special tasting menus. Rohrbach notes that elements offers wine pairings for its 5-course and 15-course tasting menus. “Each course is paired with a specific wine that elements’ captains and kitchen staff collaborate on,” he says.
When it comes to the more adventurous among us, what are some lesser known wines we might explore on our next visit to elements? “I would encourage people to explore Central Europe, particularly Hungary,” Rohrbach says. “Hungary has a long tradition of making high quality wines, and there are some truly delicious, unique, and thrilling wines being made in a variety of styles and price points all throughout the country. I would also encourage people to give Germany a deep look, especially for their Riesling, but also Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir).”
elements Princeton, 66 Witherspoon Street, Princeton. Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 8 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. 609-924-0078 or elementsprinceton.com.
Perch at the Peacock Inn
According to the history posted on its website, The Peacock Inn dates back to the 1700s. Originally located on the corner of Main Street and Railroad Avenue (now Nassau Street) and University Place, it was moved to its present location on Bayard Lane in 1875. In May 2018, the Peacock Inn was purchased by Genesis Hospitality and underwent a transformation that included the creation of Perch restaurant.
For those who last dined at The Peacock Inn decades ago, “transformation” is an understatement. A cozy, well-stocked bar accommodates about a dozen comfortably. Several attractively appointed dining rooms in subdued colors are in keeping with the structure’s historic character. Well-spaced tables encourage conversation among diners.
“We are thrilled to be recognized by such an authority in the wine world,” said Christopher Scully, manager of The Perch and its wine list, as reported in Yahoo Finance, referring to the receipt of the Wine Spectator award. “We feel that our wine list is unique in that it offers selections from around the world that can satisfy the seasoned collector and curious beginner alike. With the help of my many talented purveyors and colleagues here at The Peacock Inn, I plan to continue to develop and elevate the wine list year after year.”
“Hospitality is in my blood,” Scully says. “My mother, a waitress, raised my brother and me, and my first job 35 years ago was as a busboy in Ewing. Since then, I’ve worked at some well-regarded restaurants in New Jersey and Pennsylvania for top name restaurateurs like Stephen Starr and Jose Garces, where I began to develop my passion for food and wine. While working at The Peacock Inn, the director of hospitality, Eben Copple, and the owner and CEO of Genesis Hospitality, Dr. Eli Mordechai, noticed my dedication and passion and gave me the opportunity to manage the restaurant and wine list.”
Scully notes that that there are a number of factors that he considers when putting his list together, but number one is “knowing/predicting my guest’s taste. Another consideration is whether a wine will pair well with our menus. I would have to say our Bordeaux section is pretty impressive. We feature all five of the first growths; Lafite, Latour, Haut-Brion, Margaux, and Mouton as well as the prized 2015 vintage, Liber Pater by Loic Pasquet.” (Liber Pater is a high profile producer of fine wine based in Bordeaux.)
Scully would not end our exchange without crediting the other folks who contributed to the effort that earned Perch the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. “No one person can produce a wine list worthy of a Wine Spectator award,” he says. “It took the help of my team, especially Julie Gray, general manager of the hotel and service manager Richard Boesch, my wine purveyors, and of course, my many welcomed guests.
Perch, The Peacock Inn, 20 Bayard Lane, Princeton. Dinner: Wednesday and Thursday, 5 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., and Sunday, 4 to 8 p.m. Lunch, Wednesday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Brunch, Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Afternoon Tea, Wednesday through Sunday, 2 to 4 p.m. 609-924-1707 or thepeacockinn.com.
Witherspoon Grill
As with elements and Perch, the Witherspoon Grill exudes its own special vibe. “Grill” in its name offers a major clue that diners can expect the ambiance, bustle, and flow of a classic steak house. The restaurant’s website describes the Witherspoon Grill as offering “exceptional food, drinks and service with a refined, casual setting” and as “one of New Jersey’s premier steakhouse destinations.” Judging by the majority of positive reviews left by contented diners on Yelp and Tripadvisor, the Witherspoon Grill’s patrons agree.
The menu clearly reflects that as well. Starters include steakhouse classics like an iceberg wedge or chopped salad and reach skyward to a chilled seafood tower of raw oysters, raw clams, ahi tuna and avocado martini, shrimp, mussels, lobster ($85 / $120).
Entrees cover a range of steakhouse classics aimed to suit a range of tastes and budgets as well, including the very tasty Angus Witherspoon Burger with lettuce, tomato, onion, fries & pickle spear ($18), steak frites ($32), rack of lamb ($45), dry aged bone-in rib eye ($58), and 48 oz. porterhouse for two ($114) and more meaty treats.
And yes, there are vegetarian and seafood options as well, making (for some) the selection(s) of a glass or bottle of wine a potentially daunting part of one’s lunch or dinner dining experience. Fortunately, Witherspoon Grill’s wine director, John Traina, and his accommodating staff are happy to come to your rescue, armed with an inventory of 4,100 bottles representing 140 selections, and the knowledge to guide you to a choice that matches your meal selection and your palate.
Traina notes that he has been in the hospitality business for more than 25 years. “I’ve been fortunate enough to work with great people, amazing food, and lots of lovely wines from all over the world,” he says. “Our list is fairly expansive, so updates are a necessity. Usually, I’ll infuse new things in mid to late spring, the end of summer, and around the holidays.”
What are the things he considered when putting the Witherspoon Grill’s award-winning wine list together? “I wanted there to be something for everyone,” he explains. “Old World, New World, uncommon 100 percent varietals, field blends, and wines hailing from places that people might not expect.”
What about “places that people might not expect.”? Most of us are at least somewhat familiar with wines from California, France, Italy, Australia, and, perhaps Spain, Chile and Argentina. What other countries and or regions with a strong wine making tradition would you encourage people to explore? “Definitely Portugal,” Traina says. “Also South Africa, Brazil, Lebanon, and sparkling wine from Britain.”
How do you guide a guest who may be uncomfortable or unfamiliar with your list choose a wine? “First, I ask people what they normally drink,” he replies. “From there we can either explore something totally different, or a wine with a familiar flavor profile that’s new to them.”
Witherspoon Grill, 57 Witherspoon Street, Princeton. Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 4 to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and 4 to 9 p.m. 609-924-6011 or witherspoongrill.com.
Becoming a Wine-Savvy Diner: Two Suggestions for Raising Your Wine I.Q
#1 – Learn by Tasting: The Princeton Corkscrew Terroir Sample Case
Since 1996, Princeton Corkscrew (princetoncorkscrew.com) has catered to wine connoisseurs and casual drinkers alike.
The Terroir Sample Case is the signature selection of the shop. Five times a year, owner Laurent Chapuis and his knowledgeable staff present a curated assortment of 12 bottles of some of their favorite wines, accompanied by tasting notes and food pairings for each, and offered at a discount from their regular retail price.
Wine selections vary with the season. Buy local, drink global — what’s not to like? Think of the Terroir Sample Case from the Princeton Corkscrew as the take-home exam you’ll want to take home again and again.
#2 – Check Out Wine Enthusiast’s “7 Best Wine Books for Beginners”
Wine Enthusiast (wineenthusiast.com), a go-to site for information on wine and spirits, periodically consults with experts in the field to share their favorite tried-and-true wine books. Here seven recommendations to start you on your vinous journey:
• “The Wine Bible” by Karen MacNeil (Workman) — A comprehensive yet entertaining course on the fundamentals of wine.
• “Wine Simple” by Aldo Sohm (Clarkson Potter) — For wine newbies. Learn the basics, everyday tips, and techniques to help develop your palate.
• “The World Atlas of Wine, 8th Edition” by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson (Mitchell Beazley) — Apps and photographs that show how the wine landscape continues to evolve around the world.
• “Wine Made Easy” by Gianluca Rottura (Gianluca Rottura) — Plain English descriptions of general wine terms, plus a rundown of favorite American fare and the best wines to accompany them.
• “Rosé All Day: The Essential Guide to Your New Favorite Wine” by Katherine Cole (Abrams Image) — This rosé-focused book delves into the rich history of rosé through regional descriptions, food-pairing suggestions, and advice on starting a collection of your own.
• “A Hedonist in the Cellar” by Jay Mclnerney (Vintage) — A collection of essays from a novelist-turned-wine-columnist details the author’s early days as an oenophile.
• “Cork Dork” by Bianca Bosker (Penguin) — What’s the big deal about wine? Sommelier and blogger Bianca Bosker’s intoxicating response makes for an inspiring way to kickstart your own wine journey.
