For the past 10 years or so, driving through the charming Delaware River town of Stockton, New Jersey, has been accompanied by a tinge of sadness for the imposing, shuttered stone building at its center, the Stockton Inn.
The inn, whose original structure dates back to 1701 or thereabouts, had long held a reputation as one of the state’s oldest and best regarded restaurants. It its heyday, the Stockton Inn was famous for its wild game dinners, and I confess to dining there back in the day on wild boar and other then-exotic offerings.
I also recall the inn as it was approaching its final days of operation, stopping by for a cocktail on the way to another dining destination and lamenting the deteriorating condition of the building, by then in a state of genteel decay more reminiscent of an Antebellum mansion in the deep South than the vibrant, popular, bustling venue that had sustained it for much of its history. Things had declined to the point that, in 2022, Preservation New Jersey declared the Stockton Inn one of its 10 most endangered historic places in the state.
And what a history it holds. Perhaps its most famous claim to fame is the site where Broadway composers Rodgers and Hart were impressed by its outdoor waterfall and wishing well and used them as the inspiration for the song “There’s a Small Hotel” which made its debut in their 1936 musical “On Your Toes.” Author Margaret Mitchell reportedly labored over “Gone With the Wind” in the dining room, and novelist F. Scott Fitzgerald, Hollywood legend Clark Gable, and former first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis stayed at the inn as well.
So it was a great relief when I learned of the sale of the inn and the plans to restore it to its former glory. Relief, and a bit of trepidation as well, after witnessing other attempts at balancing the sometimes conflicting goals of “renovation” and “restoration.” On a recent Thursday evening I eagerly booked a table on the inn’s covered outdoor patio for my dining companion and me.
I needn’t have worried. Taking a spot in the off-street parking lot, we were warmly greeted by the buzz of a patio packed with diners enjoying the warm fall evening, the gentle sounds of the waterfall (yes, there really is a waterfall, although it’s turned off when the restaurant is closed), and the words of welcome of a staff member who directed us to reception. We were promptly seated next to the waterfall, its white noise, surprisingly, blending nicely with the conversations taking place around us under the high-ceilinged patio and allowing us to converse in a normal tone.
The multi-level patio, which seats about 80, is attractively fitted out; brick flooring, comfy wooden seating and amply-sized tables, enclosed by a low, rustic stone wall. Things were quite lively at the semi-enclosed outdoor bar at the back of the patio as well, which in addition to the aforementioned dining tables featured a few low, pillow-backed couches. Seating is also currently available indoors, in the Dog & Deer Tavern at the front of the inn. A more formal dining space, Finch, is slated to open later this year, as is the availability of nine hotel rooms, four located in the inn and a total of five in two adjacent carriage houses.
Note: If you’re concerned about dining outdoors on a frosty evening, as I was, the Stockton Inn website now notes that “On a seasonal schedule, the heated Terrace provides additional seating and an experience all its own. The fully covered and heated space offers the full Dog & Deer menu and bar. A cascading waterfall and vibrant greenery create an atmosphere of tranquility and charm and heaters will keep you warm on a chilly night.”
We were soon in the capable hands of our server, Bob, who offered menus and left us to contemplate drink and dinner selections. The extensive selection of craft cocktails ($18) is thoughtfully divided into two sections; Let’s Get Away From It all (“Cool & Refreshing”) included takes on classics like Planter’s Punch and a Mai Tai Royale, while the Slip Into Something Comfortable (“Stirred & Boozy”) side of the offerings, true to its name, included some mighty boozy sounding concoctions, like the Bensonhurst (Rittenhouse rye, Noilly Prat vermouth, Cynar, Luzardo cherry) and Rolls Royce (Nikka gin, Cocchi extra dry vermouth, sweet vermouth blend, Benedictine, Bogart’s bitters). A selection of mocktails and beers is on offer as well.
Ever the traditionalist, I chose an almost traditional Manhattan, made with Old Grandad Bonded 100 Proof Bourbon, while my dining companion opted for a glass of Marchesi Gavi Italian white ($13) from a compact but well-curated list of selections by the glass or bottle, prices by the glass ranging from $13 for the Gavi to $26 for a glass of Pertois-Moriset Champagne.
Drinks orders placed, Bob left us to contemplate the menu, quite extensive for a “tavern” menu at a restaurant still in its early days. Raw bar selections, which unfortunately we did not get to sample, include East Coast oysters, “Wild Shrimp,” and Tuna Tartare. Starters include Brioche Pull Apart Rolls ($15), Crab & Artichoke Dip ($26), and Steak Tartare ($23).
When Bob returned, we chose to share the generously sized and tasty Brussels Sprout Caesar Salad ($17), and assemblage of castelfranco (a milder form of raddichio), red endive, baby kale, breadcrumbs and parmigiano. For a main course, my companion chose the D&D Patty Melt ($22) featuring caramelized onion, dijon, comté and served on caraway marble rye. I went with the perfectly cooked Pan Seared Halibut ($40), served with a celery root puree, heirloom broccoli di cicco, kholrabi, and clam velouté. We would happily order any and all of these preparations again.
My halibut was the priciest main on offer. Other choices ranged from pizza margherita ($18) to steak frites ($38) and a number of options in between. A shared slice of delicious maple cheese cake ($14), decaf cappuccino, and a regular coffee ($5 each) completed our meal on a sweet note. Server Bob shared that the menu is still a work in progress, so visit the inn’s website for a current list of offerings.
Before taking our leave, we breezed past the wishing well (still there in its restored charm) and into the Dog and Deer bar room, an attractively appointed spot seating about 50 patrons enthusiastically engaged in dining, drinking, and conversing. Along the way we were favorably impressed by the décor, striking what to us seems to a near-perfect balance between modern design and respect for the building’s history.
That was also the sentiment shared by general manager Timothy Rucker, whom we happened upon in the tavern. He shared that some of the design choices were dictated by unforeseen structural issues discovered during what began as a historic restoration, choices that have been embraced enthusiastically by most all of the patrons who recall the “old” Stockton Inn. I for one couldn’t agree more. If everything old is new again, here’s hoping that the “new” “old” Stockton Inn will continue to serve hungry and thirsty travelers for at least another century or two.
Stockton Inn, One Main Street, Stockton. Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Notes: Hours subject to change, visit website to verify. Reservations strongly recommended. info@stocktoninn.com. stocktoninn.com.
The Stockton Inn.,
