Reports of lines snaking out the door at XiBei Cuisine, the Chinese restaurant that recently opened at 43 Witherspoon Street in Princeton, was a sign that my three dining companions and I had better plan on arriving early for lunch. Our hunch was correct; at 11:45 on a weekday the 38-seat dining room was already half-full of diners, including two friends, return customers of XiBei who had beaten us to the punch.
XiBei’s dining room is a brightly lit, pleasant space; light toned woods and a color scheme of red, white, and peach predominate. Two ledges above the window displayed a bevy of waving, brightly colored maneki-neko, or beckoning cat, a ubiquitous Japanese figurine whose origin dates back centuries which is believed to bring good luck (or in this case, prosperity) to the owner.
A little shuffling of tables and the six of us settled down to sample what the restaurant calls “a taste of home-style Northwest China.” China is a vast country to be sure, so what’s the difference between the cuisine of the north and that of the south?
A bit of research led me to the website chinaeducationaltours.com for an explanation; due to the difference in climate, “the North produces wheat, along with corn, maize, root-based vegetables, and cabbages, while the South produces mainly rice, along with eggplants, tomatoes, and varieties of leafy vegetables. Northerners eat more steamed bread (mantou), wheat-based noodles, dumplings, and other wheat-based foods, while the Southerners eat more rice-based foods.”
Armed with that bit of knowledge, we perused XiBei’s extensive menu, while our server brought glasses of refreshing lemon-infused water to our table.
The emphasis is indeed on heavier fare; wheat-based dumplings, noodle dishes, and protein, although there are several lighter choices, such as vegetable roll ($6.50 for two), cucumber salad ($8.95), wood ear mushroom salad ($9.95), and seaweed with special sauce ($8.95).
Dishes that may not be familiar to Western palates accustomed only to American-style Cantonese dining include Chicken Feet with Pickled Peppers ($10.95), Mutton on the Bone ($26.95), and Steamed Fish Head with Diced Red Peppers ($28.99).
Our group kicked things off with an order of Pork & Chinese Cabbage Dumplings for the table ($14.95 for 15 pieces), followed by XiBei Fried Noodles with Beef ($16.95) — topped with seared sweet red peppers, scallion and cabbage; Zha Ziang Noodles ($15.95) — topped with caramelized ground pork, soybeans and cucumber; Tomato Egg Noodles ($16.95) — egg and tomato with a savory and sour house special broth; XiBei Fried Noodles ($16.95); Bell Pepper and Shredded Beef Fried Hand Pulled Noodles ($16.95); and Braised Beef Noodles ($17.95) — beef flank, soy sauce, beef broth, and bok choy.
All were deemed share-worthy, and we left with enough leftovers for another meal. Most noodle dishes can be ordered with either peel noodles or “regular” noodles. Peel noodles are sliced from dough with a knife and tend to be heavier and chewier than regular noodles.
As with many Chinese restaurants, desserts at XiBei are an afterthought. Just two selections are offered; Handmade Yogurt ($8.95) — yogurt, raisins, peanuts and honey; and Chinese Rice Pudding ($9.50) — filled with sweet red bean paste and topped with black sesame seeds. A good selection of soft drinks is available as well.
Offering the taste bud-tempting and somewhat exotic cuisine of Northwest China at an attractive price point, whether dining in or ordering takeout, XiBei Cuisine is shaping up to be a welcome addition to Princeton’s growing downtown restaurant scene.
XiBei Cuisine, 43 Witherspoon Street Princeton. Open Tuesdays through Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; and Sundays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Mondays. princetonxibei.com or 732-543-9116.
