When Tre Piani restaurant closed its doors at its Forrestal Village location in 2018 after a (mostly) successful 20-year run, locals wondered what would become of the soaring space with its bright Mediterranean look and feel, and what would replace its Italian/Mediterranean influenced menu.
Those burning questions were answered in April of this year, with the opening of Mauryas Bar & Lounge at the Rockingham Row location. The name apparently refers to the Maurya Empire, an expansive (population between 15 and 30 million) center of art and culture that flourished in South Asia from 322 BCE to 185 BCE.
The owners of Mauryas have apparently reached back to the highest culinary influences of that place and time, to, as they state on the establishment’s website, “…seamlessly blend the rich traditions of Indian cuisine with a modern, health-focused approach. Our restaurant is proud to offer elevated Indian dishes that prioritize exceptional presentation and nutritional value, crafted by one of the top chefs in India.”
To achieve that lofty goal requires a setting worthy of their guests’ expectations. The Mauryas team engaged JRS Architect, P.C., a firm with offices at Forrestal Village and Mineola, Long Island, to revitalize the space. The firm designed an extensive re-fit of the existing three-level dining and event areas, including a refresh of the two main dining rooms and the re-imagining of the upper-level lounge, resulting in a refined venue for corporate clients that presents a setting conducive to both business conferences and relaxation. The project included a complete upgrade of the restrooms and a total renovation of the kitchen as well.
Upon entering Mauryas for the first time, as my dining companion and I did recently, our impression was that the firm achieved their design goal, retaining the initial surprise of entering the soaring three-level space, while achieving a subtly yet elegant yet minimalist vibe. Warmly greeted by manager Tony, we were shown to our table, a discreet distance from the other diners. Tables are well spaced, and despite the abundance of hard surfaces, noise level was never an issue.
We were soon welcomed by our server for the evening, Seemit, and presented with menus as well as a complementary mocktail, a refreshing concoction of juiced watermelon, pineapple, and lime, as well as a sampler of mini pappadums, breads, butter, and sweet and spicy dips, reflecting the Indian and American choices we would soon be asked to make.
This is the appropriate time to issue that caveat that what follows is not a review (we could not possibly sample enough menu items in one visit for that), but the first impression of two people who have dined at dozens of Indian restaurants over the years, and are long-time devotees of Madhur Jaffrey’s (and other chefs’) recipes for preparing the cuisines of India at home.
The New American side of the menu offers interesting takes on familiar favorites. Appetizers include fried calamari prepared with peri peri dust (a spicy pepper from Africa), fresh basil, and lemon garlic aioli ($20) and salmon tartare accompanied by avocado, capers, shallots, and lime crème fraiche ($16).
From the soup and salad offerings, one may be tempted by Gratinée des Halles, an upscale take on downmarket preparation that gained popularity during the late 19th century in the brasseries and at soup stalls catering to hungry workers and hungover artists ($10). Or truffle burrata accompanied by grilled peaches, baby greens, marcona almonds, and a white balsamic glaze ($19).
The well-curated list of entrees offering a range of options, starting at $29 for truffled ravioli with ricotta, black truffles, asparagus spears in a duxelles sherry sauce. Seafood choices include day boat scallops with lemon garlic, English pea puree, and orange beurre blanc ($44). If you and your companion crave a bit of beef, you may be tempted by the 23-day aged porterhouse for two, with heirloom carrots, potato pave, and demi-glace ($119).
But when the moment of decision arrived, heeding the siren call of Ms. Jaffrey, we made our choices from the Elevated Indian menu.
Significantly more extensive than the New American side, I can barely skim the choices here. Among the appetizers you’ll find Ash Sweet Potatoes ($16), prepared with oven roasted potatoes, herb mascarpone and, okra ($16). At the top end of the apps list sits lamb chops with ginger mint marinade, pickled apricots, rosemary fingerlings ($44). Entrees include Dal Makhni (overnight cooked Bengal gram, tomatoes, butter, cream) at $24, and range up to $59 for Pondicherry Chilean Seabass (pan seared, purple cauliflower puree, tri-color Quinoa).
So many choices, what to do? Fortunately it was our Seemit, our server, to the rescue. Patient and knowledgeable, he gently guided us to select two appetizers; wild mushroom samosas ($12) and beetroot galouti “Lucknow Style Mouth Melting Beetroot Tikki” for $19. For our entrees we chose butter chicken “Simmered Drumstick, Tri-Color New Potatoes” for $35, and the aforementioned Dal Makhni. All excellent choices with a nice range of sauces and preparations, attractively presented. Thank you, Seemit!
Dessert, coffee and cordial selections are shared by both menus. We normally forego dessert, but went off-script (and off-diet) with a shared Marquise au Chocolat; bittersweet chocolate mousse, chocolate genoise topped with chocolate and kirsch syrup ($14).
Mauryas also offers a good selection of wines, spirits, cocktails, mocktails, coffees, and other beverages.
Like the chocolate mousse, we eventually made a bittersweet departure from Seemit and Tony, but vowed to return…
Mauryas Bar and Grill, 120 Rockingham Row, Forrestal Village, Princeton. 609-905-0200. info@mauryasnj.com. mauryasnj.com
Lunch: Daily, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Dinner: Sundays through Thursdays, 4 to 9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 4 to 10 p.m.; Bar: Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sundays, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Happy Hour Menu Daily from 4 to 7 p.m. Note: A 20% gratuity is added to all orders
The Mauryas' bar.,
