I admit that I’ve been reluctant to visit both The Boat House and Revolution Woodfire Grille in Lambertville since they changed hands.
First Stop … The Boat House
For years, The Boat House has been one of my favorite places to catch up with friends over a drink in a cozy setting; a quirky, compact, vintage two-story structure at the end of an alley, virtually filled to bursting with nautical memorabilia, the perfect place to have a quiet drink and engage in conversation.
Across the courtyard, Revolution Woodfire Grille began life as Hamilton’s Grill Room, the vision of a local legend, the late Jim Hamilton. Taken over for a time by local legend-in-the-making Chef Brian Held, the structure sat dormant for a time until both properties were acquired in August of last year by Refined Hospitality, in partnership with Brickstone Realty and Trax Partners.
Despite my trepidation, I had high hopes that both locations would remain true to the part they’ve played in forming the fabric of community life in Lambertville. Especially since it’s been reported that in 1990, Jim Hamilton was the first client of Refined Hospitality’s founder and CEO Ron Gorodesky, and that his company’s website acknowledges The Boat House as “the heart and soul of Lambertville.”
The tipping point on whether to stop by came when a friend informed me that Revolution was offering a Midweek Dinner Special too good to pass up, a three-course Prix Fixe menu, served Tuesday through Thursday, for just $29 per person. A cocktail at The Boat House followed by dinner at Revolution? Oh, yes!
We arrived at The Boat House an hour before our dinner reservation on a recent Tuesday evening to find the ground floor filled with a mellow crowd and the murmur of conversation. Escorted to the cozy comfort of the second floor, we passed by the first noticeable change; a keyboard shoehorned in a space adjacent to the stairway. Live music at The Boat House?!?
Once we settled in, our friendly server Dylan took our drinks order; nicely prepared rye and Bourbon Manhattans ($16 each), a glass of Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand ($13) and a glass of Francois Labet Pinot Noir from Burgundy ($13). To my knowledge, food has never been served at The Boat House, and that tradition seems to be continuing.
And, oh yes, there was music. Not from the keyboard below (yet) but recorded music from a rather static-y speaker, a speaker that Dylan informed us would soon be turned off to make way for the keyboard player/vocalist we’d passed by.
Live music at The Boat House. A good thing? A bad thing? A different thing? I leave it to you to make up your own mind, dear reader. I for one always come here to appreciate the sound of often spirited conversation, the clink of glasses, and to be in a rare place where, as Yeats said, “There are no strangers, only friends you haven’t yet met.”
Although making new friends may be a challenge with classic rock playing in the background.
Anyway, our evening has just begun … on to Revolution Woodfire Grille across the courtyard!
The Boat House, 8 ½ Coryell Street, Lambertville. Open Tuesday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday, 4 to 11 p.m.; and Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Christmas Day and New Years Day. Open Boxing Day, December 26, noon to 11 p.m.; and New Years Eve, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. 609-397-2244. refinedhospitality.com/the-boat-house.
Revolution Woodfire Grille
Anyone familiar with previous incarnations of what is now Revolution Woodfire Grille should feel right at home in this gently reimagined space. The restaurant’s website promises that “…The interior elements will be reimagined through an abstract lens, with artfully curated design elements, celebrating Lambertville’s colorful culture. Complementing the playful aesthetics will be a whimsical garden tucked under a canopy of trees for al fresco dining…”
They’ll get no argument from me. The glassed-in front dining room is as warm and inviting as ever, as was our greeting when we checked in and were offered our choice of dining rooms. Drawn by the aroma of the wood-fired grill, we chose to sit opposite a very busy chef preparing many of the items on the evening’s menu.
There we were again welcomed by David, our genial and knowledgeable server, who presented us with both the regular and prix fixe menus.
From the prix fixe menu, two of us chose the Brussels Sprout Salad (pine nuts, dried cranberries, Parmesan cheese, lemon Dijon dressing) and one selected the Chopped Romaine Caesar Salad with sourdough croutons. Ordering from the regular menu, my other dining companion chose the Field Greens Salad with cucumber, carrot, goat cheese crostini, sherry vinaigrette ($12). All were deemed freshly prepared and very satisfying.
For our entrees, we sampled three choices from the prix fixe menu; Grilled Bronzino Fillet (olives, leeks, roasted tomatoes, grilled Yukon potatoes), Grilled Shrimp Scallop Skewer (zucchini, red and green pepper, served on a bed of white rice), and Chicken Schnitzel (mushroom cream sauce, mashed potatoes, green beans).
The grilled seafood choices were perfectly grilled, a light crust on the outside and cooked through just enough to retain moistness and allow the flavors and freshness of the ingredients to shine through. The Chicken Schnitzel was the surprise hit of the evening, a moist and more than adequately sized portion that served as one lucky diner’s lunch the following day.
The fourth dining companion in our party chose Grilled Scottish Salmon with Black Garlic Butter ($32), crusty on the outside and medium rare within, exactly as-requested.
Two dessert options were offered on the prix fixe; creamy Pannacotta and a rich Chocolate Caramel Tart. Either would make an excellent, sweet coda to your meal, as would the Cheesecake with Amarena Cherries ($12) from the regular menu.
Note: The prix fixe menu is subject to change; two soup appetizer options were on offer on the evening of our visit, as well as steamed mussels and pasta entree options. Check Revolution’s website for a sample prix fixe and regular menus.
One significant change from earlier incarnations of this space is that a full range of alcoholic beverages is available. Wine offerings from the compact, well-curated list range in price from $37 for Lucien Albrecht Reisling from the Alsace to Veuve Clicquot Rose priced at $131, with a good selection of bottles in the $37 to $47 range. Most are offered by the glass as well, and there’s a nice selection of cocktails and mocktails.
We chose to share an impressive Mount Salem Vineyards Cabernet Franc, an excellent value from an unknown (to us) vineyard at under $50, and even more impressive when a bit of post-prandial research revealed that Mount Salem Vineyards is located in New Jersey, causing me to immediately revise my blanket opinion of wines from the Garden State.
All agreed that a return visit to Revolution is in order, when I’ll be tossing a coin to decide on my selection from the Tavern Side section of the menu. Wood Grilled Cheeseburger? Or Bacon Wrapped Meatloaf? Decisions, decisions…
Revolution Woodfire Grille, 8 Coryell Street, Lambertville. Open Tuesday through Friday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. (lunch & brunch), 3:30 to 5 p.m. (limited lunch menu), and 5 to 9:30 p.m. (dinner). Closed Christmas Day and New Years Day. Open Boxing Day, December 26, noon to 10 p.m., and New Years Eve, 5 to 11 p.m. Reservations on RESY or by phone: 856-315-1300. Note: Revolution is available for private dining/special events. refinedhospitality.com/revolution-woodfire-dining.
