For the Fall Dining issue of U.S. 1, I chose “Under the Radar” to describe the common thread that runs through this eclectic list of fall dining destinations. Steady rollin’ eateries.
Not necessarily top-of-mind, especially glamorous, or au courant, but popular, reliable, welcoming establishments. The sort of places people return to again and again, have stood the test of time, and that are getting harder and harder to find. That’s not damning with faint praise, it’s what most folks are looking for when they dine out.
What follows, in alphabetical order, is a highly subjective selection for your consideration. Not reviews, but general impressions that just may tempt you to add some or all of these dining destinations to your restaurant radar.
Anton’s at the Swan
For nearly 25 of its 60 or so years, chef/owner Chris Connors has been turning out consistently satisfying food at this venerable location, the site of the Swan Hotel, circa 1870. The adjoining bar room reflects the creative vision of the late Jim Hamilton, a local legend and proprietor of Hamilton’s Grill Room.
A short walk from the bustle of busy Bridge Street in the charming Delaware River town of Lambertville, Anton’s bills itself as “New American Comfort Food in a Romantic Setting.” The comfort and romance extend from the welcoming dining rooms to the cozy, multi-level bar room that one Yelp reviewer called “…by far the coolest bar to hang out in the New Hope area…”
It would be hard to disagree. The cozy bar seats six, twenty more patrons in the surrounding area, still more on the patio, weather permitting. Upstairs, two additional rooms may be reserved for private events.
Despite Lambertville/New Hope tourism, Anton’s manages to retain a decidedly local vibe. “Everyone is always polite and cordial to each other,” says bartender Eric Hammer. On alternate evenings he shares responsibility for overseeing the bar room with Cricket, an engaging and kinda sassy presence in her own right.
The menu served in the adjoining restaurant is also available at the bar. “We have great burgers, a mashed potato & onion pizza, on up to more upmarket entrées like grilled hanger steak and sea bass,” Hammer says.
Whether you begin your dining experience in the bar or one of Anton’s dining rooms, you are sure to find an appetizer to suit your mood and your dietary preferences. Tomato basil soup with toasted cornbread croutons, chicken liver pâté served with cornichons and grainy mustard, and Caesar salad with garlic croutons are personal favorites, while the sautéed crab cake served with pickled red cabbage and tartar sauce, paired with glass of wine from a well-curated list, can make for a very satisfying light meal in the Swan bar.
The pizza selections are popular in the bar room as well, and include grilled white pizza with the aforementioned mashed potato and onion topping. Other options include kalamata olives and caramelized onions, wild mushroom and sunny side up egg, and pepperoni and hot honey. All are priced at less than $20.
Anton’s burgers are another excellent casual dining option. Add toppings like American or Gorgonzola cheese, a sunny side up egg, and/or caramelized onions to the classic burger. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, order the Bulgogi Impossible Burger with daikon radish and kimchi mayo. My personal favorite is the burger paired with a small Caesar salad, a tasty combo and an excellent value ($23), accompanied by a glass of Elouan pinot noir from Oregon.
If you’ve brought your appetite to Anton’s, check out the offerings from the list of entrées, that in addition to grilled hanger steak and sea bass Eric mentioned, may on a given evening include Griggstown quail with corn and bacon risotto, sautéed skate with lemon and capers and a grilled pork chop with truffle mashed potatoes.
And be sure to save room for dessert (all priced at $10). My guilty pleasure is the carrot cake with cream cheese icing. Yum!
Anton’s at the Swan, 43 South Main Street, Lambertville. Dining Room Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 8:30 p.m.; Sunday, 4:30 to 8 p.m. Bar Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m. The full restaurant menu is available at the bar. 609-397-1960 or antons-at-the-swan.com.
Black Bass Hotel
Built in 1745, the Black Bass Hotel in Lumberville, Pennsylvania, bills itself as one of the oldest inns in the country. So why did this venerable Bucks County dining establishment make my Under the Radar list?
I’ve been dining (and staying) at the Black Bass for years. During that time the inn has had three different owners, having been purchased (along with the Lumberville General Store) by Jack Thompson of the Thompson Organization family of automotive dealerships in 2008, and more recently by Karen Thompson (no relation) of LSL Brands in September, 2024. I was keen to see what, if any, changes have been wrought under the inn’s new ownership.
I’m happy to report the changeover has not diminished the popularity of this charming inn. Arriving on a recent Tuesday for lunch, a slow day for most establishments, my dining companion and I were pleasantly surprised to find the place abuzz with diners, both in the glassed in main dining room with its Delaware River views and on the riverside outdoor deck one floor below, despite a brisk breeze and a sun that only sporadically peeked out from behind the clouds.
As to the interior décor, I was relieved to find that a sensitive refresh undertaken by both the previous and new owners has respected and retained the inn’s historic character and charm. We were soon welcomed by our engaging server, Karen. To start, we ordered the refreshing Summer Peach Salad with Hudson Valley Camembert; arugula, toasted pecans, lemon vinaigrette, and sections of lightly grilled in-season peach.
For our entrées, my dining companion chose the Bass’T Cheeseburger on a Pretzel Roll; a ground sirloin patty served with bacon jam, pickled onion, Vermont cheddar, sliced tomato, lettuce, and French fries ($19). I chose the Pan Roasted Cod with Littleneck Clams and Andouille Cream; served with andouille sausage, sauteed sweet peppers, and fingerling potatoes ($26). Both were deemed winning selections, and the cod, clam, and sausage preparation declared an incredible value.
For dessert, we shared the Frutti de Bosco; shortcrust pastry base filled with Chantilly cream, topped with a layer of sponge cake and fresh berries ($12). Other choices included Limoncello Raspberry Cake, Classic Creme Brûlée, Ricotta and Pistachio Cake, Old Fashioned Chocolate Cake, Gluten Free Chocolate Torte, and ice cream and sorbet. We topped off our meal with excellent Black Eddy’s Darkness French press coffee, a dark roast described as “dark and bold, semi-sweet chocolate, stout and smoky” that lived up to its billing. If you’re a coffee lover, order the large carafe for two, priced at a very reasonable $9.
A full bar menu of wines, beers, and cocktails is available. Beginning on October 13, The Black Bass will offer “Meet Me at the Bass,” a three-course menu served Monday through Thursday in the pewter-topped bar, priced at $52.50 per person. Visit the inn’s website for details.
And in keeping with the spooky spirit of the season, before you leave be sure to ask your server to point out the two tables that were (so the story goes) used to perform autopsies on workers during the building of the canal…
Black Bass Hotel, 3774 River Road, Lumberville, Pennsylvania. Dinner & Tavern Hours: Daily, 5 to 9 p.m. (no Tavern menu on Saturdays); Lunch: Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Brunch: Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; “Lite Afternoon”: Daily, 3 to 5 p.m. 215-297-9260 or blackbasshotel.com.
Margaret & Peter Pulhac’s Blue Danube
I recently made two visits to the Blue Danube, and each time it did not disappoint. For 35 years, the owners of this Trenton stalwart, Margaret and Peter Pulhac, have been offering diners what they characterize on their website as “Eastern European cuisine encompassing the countries along the Danube River: Hungarian, Romanian, German, Polish, Czech. Stuffed cabbage, pierogies, chicken paprikas, beef goulash, sauerbraten, weiner schnitzel” and “Large portions at reasonable prices.”
They’ll get no argument from me. A recent dinnertime visit with three dining companions gave all of us an opportunity to sample many of the dishes described above, preceded by a round of cocktails and accompanied by glasses of wine, that concluded with a sampling of some stellar desserts and specialty coffees.
Entering the Blue Danube is entering a world that is warm and welcoming, one that is fast disappearing in a culinary landscape increasingly dominated by fast casual chain restaurants, perfunctory service, and transactional business models that rely more on profits from takeout than offering an engaging dine-in experience for their customers.
As with my dinnertime visit to the Blue Danube, the aroma of sour cream, onions, paprika, and smoked meats greeted us as we entered the dark wood and wrought iron doors for lunch. The atmosphere inside the restaurant is homey and comfortable, a throwback to an earlier time evoking a cozy familiar feeling, not unlike stepping into a favorite pair of comfy slippers.
We were warmly greeted and shown to our table by co-owner Margaret Pulhac, who escorted us past the cozy bar, which sports a sign that proudly proclaims “Dining in the Classic Old World Tradition,” a spot-on description of what patrons of the Blue Danube can expect to experience.
On the day of our luncheon visit, the bar and adjacent dining room were populated by an animated group of construction workers taking a break from what we were told was a major project underway next door, the adaptive reuse and transformation of a former industrial building into a charter school, emblematic of the revival efforts underway in New Jersey’s capital. Good natured chatter about “risers” and “ductwork” and other argot of the building trades floated around the room between the contented consumption of an impressive array of entrées. Check out the Blue Danube website for a full list.
Margaret went to retrieve our order of two unsweetened iced teas while we perused the menu. Vowing that this would be a light-ish lunch, we chose to share three appetizers and a small house salad.
The potato pancakes arrived with side servings of sour cream and apple sauce, perfectly crisped and not at all greasy. Two cabbage rolls stuffed with pork, beef, and rice, and slow cooked with tomatoes, sauerkraut, and shredded cabbage did not disappoint. The mititei, a Romanian specialty of grilled ground meat rolls made of beef and veal and seasoned with garlic and thyme are a must try. The freshly made house salad with creamy dill dressing included bits of fresh melon, an unexpected and refreshing touch.
After scoping out the dessert menu, we decided to hedge on our vow to have a “light-ish” lunch, and shared another the Romanian specialty, plachinta, crêpes layered with a warm ricotta cheese filling. Adding two coffees to our dessert brought the total bill, including tip, to a very reasonable $75, a small price to pay for a trip to the Old World, and a trip back in time.
Blue Danube, 538 Adeline Street, Trenton. Tuesdays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturdays, 5 to 10 p.m.; Sundays, 3 to 9 p.m. Closed Mondays. 609-393-6133 or bluedanuberestaurant.net.
Erini Restaurant
Why haven’t I stopped here before? I must have passed by Erini’s, an attractive looking structure surrounded by lush gardens and set back from bustling Route 29 along the Delaware River near even more bustling I-295, a hundred or more times on my way to Lambertville, yet never gave it a tumble, despite its inviting first impression and a parking lot that was always packed.
As my dining companion and I approached the front door of Erini’s on a recent late summer night, our attention was drawn to a notice taped to the door informing us of Erini’s dress code, something I have only encountered at Jersey Shore establishments of the “No Shirt, No Shoes, No Service” kind.
Erini’s code goes a step beyond, stating that “…We do not permit beanies or caps to be worn in our indoor dining rooms or party spaces. Sports jerseys, work boots, open-toed slides with socks or inappropriate or overly revealing clothing are not permitted to be worn anywhere on the property…”
That’s not a criticism. As one who is more than happy to don a suit (or even a tux) when the occasion calls for it, I was frankly tickled. Digging deeper into Erini’s website revealed that the code is part and parcel of executive chef/owner and third generation restaurateur Nick Fifis’ passionate quest embedded in his restaurant’s tag line and emblazoned on the uniform of every Erini employee, that “Positive Energy Loves Company.”
That vibe has clearly taken hold and passed along from Nick to the welcoming staff who greeted us, to our engaging server Jandir, to the contented diners seated nearby, and to the thrum of conversation and the soothing sounds of reggae emanating from Erini’s Tiki Bar.
Offered the choice of either indoor or outdoor seating, we chose outdoors, to take advantage of the warm September evening. Surrounded by a lattice fence lush with flowering vines and planters filled with more flowers, we were shielded from Route 29 and the parking lot, and with only a short stretch of the imagination, transported to our own little tropical island getaway.
Fresh rolls, olive oil, and assorted olives were soon brought to our table, as were a well crafted Manhattan and a glass of Anterra pinot noir from Italy. A thoughtfully curated wine list and assortment of craft cocktails are available as well. To start, my dining companion and I chose to share the satisfying Erini Salad (field greens, dried cranberries, Gorgonzola cheese, candied walnuts, and apples, tossed in a cranberry citrus vinaigrette).
Feeling more hungry than adventurous that evening, for our entrées my dining companion chose chef Fifis’ take on veal parm, served with angel hair pasta. I selected the 12 oz. Prime center cut New York strip, prepared medium rare as requested and accompanied by sautéed spinach and mashed sweet potatoes. Both selections were deemed worthy of an encore on a future visit.
Among the other tempting-sounding entrée options were pretzel crusted grouper (sauteed haricots verts, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, mustard cream sauce) and braised lamb shank (garlic mashed potatoes and roasted carrots). Entrée prices ranged from $29.90 for the chicken parm to a 10 ounce center cut filet mignon, priced at $54.90. Several seafood and “land & sea” entrées are listed as “market price.” An extensive gluten-free menu is offered as well; visit Erini’s website for details.
Eschewing dessert, we capped off our meal with a coffee and a cappuccino and reluctantly departed our slice of tropical paradise, those reggae rhythms still echoing in our ears while the positive energy emanating from Erini’s propelled us home.
Erini’s, 1140 River Road, Ewing Township. Tuesday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 3 to 8 p.m. Closed Mondays. 609-882-0303 or erinirestaurant.com.
Luca’s Ristorante
In ironically named Country Plaza, a small retail strip like so many others along the Route 27 corridor between Kendall Park and New Brunswick, nestled between Desi Food Galaxy and Casa Tortilla Tex Mexican Grille, you’ll find Luca’s Ristorante. Don’t let the funky location dissuade you.
Etched into the window glass, and printed on its menu and elsewhere, you’ll find an intriguing promise: “Experience the Taste of Ischia.”
“What or where is Ischia, and what does Ischian cuisine taste like?” you may ask. By the end of your time at Luca’s, all will be revealed. First, the what and where. Ischia is a picturesque, mountainous volcanic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea, about 19 miles from Naples, Italy. Its highest peak is Mount Epomeo (2,585 feet).
It is also the home of Luca’s executive chef/owner Andrea Di Meglio. Since 1994, Di Meglio and his capable staff have been bringing the flavors of Ischia and other parts of Italy to satisfied diners in our area.
Can’t jet off to a volcanic island off the Neapolitan coast? No worries, Chef Di Meglio has also taken great pains to bring the ambiance of Ischia to Luca’s. You’ll get a hint as soon as you pass by the plaque that reads “Quelo che per me — Il doppio a te.” For the linguistically challenged that translates to “What you wish for me — I wish double for you.”
Then on to a warm greeting at reception before being shown to your table (reservations strongly suggested) in one of two dining areas. Subdued lighting, rustic floor tiles, and brick wainscoting make for a cozy atmosphere. On the way, you’ll notice the painting of Ischian scenes and take a moment to take in the impressive array of wall-mounted tiles depicting Chef Di Meglio’s homeland and filled with colorful caricatures of local denizens.
While perusing the menu you’ll also notice a mischievous, rather grotesque figure clad in white garb including a white pointed cap and wearing a dark mask that inhabits the artwork throughout Luca’s. On one visit our gracious server — named Luca as it happens, and a relative of the owner — explained that the figure represented Pulcinella, who we learned upon further research was a stock character in Neapolitan puppetry dating to the 17th century, a schemer and social climber always striving to improve his lot in life.
The visual feast is accompanied by a culinary feast as well, and diners are well advised to peruse Luca’s extensive menu online. Worth noting in this limited space are Di Meglio’s Ischian specialties, helpfully indicated in red on both the lunch and dinner menus. These include Fico (fresh figs, mascarpone, pine nuts, prosciutto, mango balsamic pears), Agnolotti (stuffed butternut squash, cocoa pasta, pumpkin seeds, creamy herb), Marsala Arrosto (roasted whole chicken breast with frenched drumette marsala sauce, mushroom risotto) and more. Finish your mini-break to Ischia with tasty selections from the dessert menu and excellent coffee from Benfatto Coffee Roasters of Hillsborough.
As we were settling up our bill with Luca we heard a smiling couple proclaim “We’ll be back!” on their way out the door. Ditto.
Luca’s Ristorante, 2019 Route 27, Somerset. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 10 p.m. A selection of wines from Hopewell valley /Vineyards is offered, but BYO is welcome. Note that 3.5 percent will added to the check if paying with a credit card. 732-297-7676 or lucasristorante.com.
