When things get hot and humid, life slows down.
The least exertion brings about copious amounts of perspiration. Even thinking can be a strain. That kind of muggy heat can attenuate appetites, to a point. But we have to eat.
So we found ourselves seeking some kind of nourishment one steamy night. Neither of us wanted to cook. We weren’t even sure what we wanted to eat. And then, inspiration.
Take out!
But then what? Chinese? Latin? Tomato Pie? Oh! What could be more fitting for a tropical heat wave than some Jamaican cuisine from The Hummingbird Restaurant.
This unassuming little restaurant has been in operation at the northeast corner of Front and South Warren for more than two years now. The location has seen prior incarnations over the past decade as an Indian restaurant and a chicken and waffle place, to name two. But like its namesake, this enterprise seems to hover in place, delighting all who pass by with its exotic scents and well made food.
Open Monday to Friday from 10 to 7 (6 on Fridays), Hummingbird provides some in-store seating, but most of its sales are takeaway for the lunch and dinner crowds.
The menu covers the basics of Jamaican cuisine. Chicken or fish soups ($3/$3.50 respectively for a medium portion, $2 more each for the large) for starters. The jerk chicken ($5.50) or jerk salmon ($10) salads would serve as a healthy lunch or light dinner.
When it comes to entrees, you have your choice from curry chicken, stew chicken, jerk chicken, curry goat or oxtail. All come in three sizes, $5.95, $7.95 and $9.45 for the chicken dishes. Goat costs $.50 more per size and oxtail $1.50 more. Each entree comes with rice and vegetables.
Available sides include Festival … a sweet, fried corn meal dumpling (two for $1). Similar to a sweeter, elongated hush puppy. Vegetable, chicken or beef patties ($1.75 or $1.50) plantains, fried, 6 pieces for $2 or macaroni and cheese for $3.
As we pondered the menu selections, we realized we only had a few minutes until closing time so we kept the order straightforward and simple. A medium curry chicken, white rice and Festival for me. Medium jerk chicken, rice and beans and macaroni and cheese for Co-Muncher. We called, apologizing for the last-minute order.
My apology was accepted with a laugh. As it turned out, there wasn’t a lot in the kitchen to choose from, but our selections were good. Frankly, I took that as a positive sign. If there isn’t a lot of food leftover at the close of business, you can pretty much be sure things are made fresh daily.
Upon arrival to pick up the order, I was informed they were a little short on the jerk chicken but would be happy to add in some of the stew chicken as well. Perfect! A chance to taste all three items.
Back home, we opened our take out containers. The generous helpings and inviting aromas made up our minds. Despite the heat, we were hungry.
The curry chicken was very subtle, laid back. Just flavorful enough to entice and delight but not in the least overpowering. The white rice was a great sponge for the extra sauce.
The stew chicken was moist and tender with an unassuming, homey flavor that was just plain comforting.
The jerk chicken was smartly dressed in a sweet, slightly pungent sauce that stimulated the taste buds without burning you out. There was a controlled, midlevel heat.
The rice and beans were unremarkable except for the parts that had been under the jerk chicken and taken up some of the sauce. The sweet heat seemed to enhance the otherwise basic flavor of the beans.
In all cases, the chicken was cooked perfectly. It was moist, tender and practically fell off of the bone.
As macaroni and cheeses go, Hummingbird’s was ok. Not the best ever and far from the worst.
In the end, we were sated and satisfied. The portions were plentiful, the flavors just assertive enough to revive our overheated selves.
When you need to slow down and kick back, grab a bite from Hummingbird.
Cash and all major credit cards accepted.
Clockwise from upper left: stew chicken
