In recent years, Philadelphia’s reputation as a dining destination has gone national, thanks in large part to the efforts of chefs like Jose Garces and restaurateurs like Stephen Starr, who head growing empires of restaurants in the city.
Without much fanfare, Hamilton has found itself unexpectedly part of that scene since July, when Starr took over operations of Rat’s Restaurant, the hip yet cozy restaurant at Grounds For Sculpture. Now its beautiful kitchen is the domain of Kevin Sbraga, whom Starr has hired as executive chef.
Sbraga, who spent time growing up at his father’s bakery, Harvey’s, in Willingboro, has worked in award-winning kitchens from Naples, Fla., to Belgium. He won Best Meat Presentation at the U.S. semifinals of the Bocuse d’Or competition in Walt Disney World last year, and has previously worked for both Starr as a chef consultant and more recently as culinary director for Garces.
“I really enjoyed working for Jose, he’s a brilliant chef, he’s really on his way to the top,” Sbraga said. “But for me, I really wanted to get back into the kitchen.”
As to what has changed at Rat’s, he said he’s focused on getting the restaurant back to its original vision of a country French restaurant.
“We’ve also made it more approachable,” Sbraga said. “We’ve lowered the prices, put more familiar ingredients on the menu and tried to make it a little simpler.”
The menu changes seasonally, but items one might find on it in the Sbraga era include comforting yet expertly prepared dishes like classic French onion soup, rotisserie chicken and simply cooked salmon.
Rat’s is open for lunch Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and for dinner Wednesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m. Brunch is served Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (reservations required). The Lounge at Rat’s Restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. To make reservations, call (609) 584-7800.
Rat’s also offers private dining in the Rat Hole, the playful name of the chef’s table, where up to 12 can enjoy seven-course tasting menus in full view of all the action going on in the kitchen. Call (609) 586-1303 for more information about the Rat Hole or about holding special events at Rat’s. On the Web: ratsrestaurant.org.
Philadelphia restaurateur extraordinaire Stephen Starr tabbed award-winning chef Kevin Sbraga to head the kitchen at Rat’s, at Grounds for Sculpture in Hamilton. (Photos by Suzette J. Lucas.),
